Not every project I build comes out perfectly. As a matter of fact, I can't recall too many that didn't have at least one minor mistake. Naturally, After all something that nobody else would notice, while some of you may. Certainly, I've never built a perfect pivot bookcase, but I'm getting a lot closer!

Even the bookcase in this specific article isn't perfect. Each and every time I build one, I learn something new. After all, hidden bookcase doors are a complete lot more complicated than an ordinary door--there are a lot of variables, both in design and construction, especially on openings that have to swing out.

In this specific article, I'll explain some of the errors I made so ideally you will not make them--and maybe I won't make sure they are again. If you notice any others, please let me know. Hidden door bookcases aren't easy to create or build, but they're intriguing. Maybe 1 day we'll all be able to build one that's perfect atlanta divorce attorneys way.

Hinges and Wheels

I've seen and installed a great deal of bookcase entrances, many that swing on regular butt hinges. I've always used 4 1/2 or 5-in. heavy-duty ball bearing hinges, and they work alright, though the hinges tend to sag a little when the case is absolutely loaded down with books. Plus they need some adjustment down the road always. Plus, they require a lot of jamb clearance, which has never seemed right to me. Besides, butt hinges only work on swing-in bookcases--there's no way to cover up them completely over a swing-out design.

I've also seen case shops build these kind of gates, using euro hinges. Trust me, those never work, no matter how many of these little hinges you utilize, they always sag. I've seen carpenters use piano hinges, too, but then it's tough to take the case off or adjust the hinge. Besides, a good piano hinge is hard to cover up in the trim over a swing-out case.

Swinging bookcases sag just a little always, too. I've tried installing rims and rollers on the bottoms of swinging bookcases, and they work okay, as long as the ground is a smooth, hard surface, of course, if there are no toss rugs, though sometimes the roller leaves a tell-tale trail on the floor, over carpet especially.

When you use a roller, at least you have to leave a gap in the bottom of the case for floor clearance, and that's a inactive giveaway, too. Plus it's extremely difficult to really cover the bones in the baseboard, no subject how cleverly you disguise them. From what I've learned, the best way to design and build a durable swing-out bookcase door, one that can be adjusted easily, and one that's truly invisible, is to design the hinged door to swing above the baseboard, and hang it on a center-hung pivot hinge.

FOCUS ON a Drawing

There are few assignments I work on today without performing a range drawing first. When in involves bookcases, swinging ones especially, SketchUp has saved my entire life. This task was started out by me with a two-dimensional drawing, one which allowed me to pivot the hinged door in the pulling. That's how I found the right location for the pivot point, which took some experimenting. The two most significant issues are: 1: The situation has to swing clear of the hinge jamb; 2: The truth has to start 90 degrees. Unless you learn how to animate Sketchup drawings, watch this tutorial that Todd Murdock has come up with. I needed the entire case to have a minimal amount of clearance between your jambs, so it would just clear the cut on the hinge side, and wouldn't require huge lean on the attack side. That clearance is determined by the setback of the pivot perpendicular to the face of the wall structure. When wide open, the door butts contrary to the trim on the hinge side. That clearance is determined by the depth of the bookcase and the location of the pivot, measured from the hinge jamb toward the strike jamb-parallel with the wall.